In short
- List what the shop must hold: trucks, trailers, RV, boat, tractor, lift. That list sets the door size, wall height and slab.
- Many steel-building guides put a 14-ft door as the common target for a Class A motorhome.
- Slab thickness and steel come from your engineer, based on your soil and your heaviest load.
- Ask in writing how the shop is separated from living space, and who checks it.
On this page
Barndominium shop planning in East Texas starts with the thing in the bay, not the floor plan. People often draw the house first and squeeze the shop in. This guide covers the questions to settle before you sign a contract. We are a referral service, not a builder or engineer; the numbers below are typical figures from published sources, not specs for your building.
En español: Cómo planificar el taller de un barndominium en el este de Texas.
Start with the tallest thing you will park inside
Write down every vehicle and machine the shop must hold, including ones you may buy later. Measure the tallest point, including a roof air conditioner or mast. Published guides vary, so use them as a starting point and let the door supplier confirm.
Figures from AA Metal Buildings, Mega Garage Homes and Gensteel. Guides disagree on details, so confirm with your builder and door supplier.
| If you will park | Ask the builder to plan for | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Pickup, car, UTV | Standard overhead door, normal eave height | Lowest cost; still check lift or hoist plans |
| Tractor with cab or loader | Taller door and wide opening; measure raised bucket | Loaders and cabs clear less than people expect |
| Boat on a trailer | Height of boat plus trailer, and turning room | Trailer plus boat is often taller than the boat alone |
| Travel trailer, fifth wheel or motorhome | Tall door, deep bay, 1.5 ft margin above the roofline | Roof AC units add height; see sources above |
Roll-up, sectional or bi-fold: which door fits?
The door type changes how much space you need above the opening and how it behaves in a tall bay. Headroom figures vary by source and by model, so ask the supplier for the exact number for the door you are pricing.
Roll-up
- Curtain coils above the opening; sources cite roughly 12 to 18 inches
- Often easier to fit in a steel endwall
- Usually less insulated
Best if: space above the opening is tight.
Sectional
- Tracks need more headroom; one source gives 10 to 24 inches
- Looks more like a house garage door
- Insulates better
Best if: the bay is conditioned.
Bi-fold or hydraulic
- Lifts up and out, leaving no track over the rig
- Vendors such as Schweiss market them for tall RV doors
- Ask about wind rating, cost and service
Best if: you want a very large opening.
Headroom ranges are from the Direct Metal Structures and other builder blogs. The bi-fold information comes mainly from a vendor.
Saves money: frame for the tall door during the build. One steel-building guide notes that raising a header afterward costs much more than framing it up front.
Slab: tell the engineer your heaviest load
A shop slab carries more than a house slab: a loaded trailer, a tractor, a lift or a welding table. We do not give thickness or steel as a rule, because your soil and your loads decide them. East Texas clay moves with moisture, and a slab that holds a truck can still crack if the ground under it heats and swells. Our clay-soil foundation guide explains why one slab often serves both home and shop and why soil borings should cover the shop.
- What is the heaviest vehicle or machine, and where will it sit or turn?
- Will a car lift, hoist, or heavy machine be added later? Tell the engineer now.
- Does the engineer's design cover the shop slab, apron and door thresholds?
- Is the slab one pour or separate pours with joints, and who decides where the joints go?
- What happens if a crack opens later, and what does the warranty say?
Watch out: a bid that says only "4-inch slab" is not a design. Ask who sets the slab design and ask for the engineer's name and letter.
Where the shop meets the living space
A shop under one roof with a home brings fumes, noise, fire risk and moisture next to bedrooms. The model residential code includes a dwelling-garage separation section, R302.6. The 2021 IRC base text calls for gypsum board on the garage side of the wall, with a heavier type where a habitable room sits above the garage. States and cities amend it, and a shop with welding or fuel is not a typical garage.
Smith County has limited building regulation outside city limits (see our permits guide), so the code may not be enforced for you. That does not remove the risk. Ask your builder to follow a stated standard, and ask your lender and insurer whether they require one.
- Which code edition does the builder use for the wall between shop and living space?
- Is the shared wall gypsum-covered to the roof, and are penetrations sealed?
- Does the door between shop and house close tightly and latch?
- Are there smoke and carbon monoxide alarms on both sides, per the plan?
- Does the insurer treat the shop as part of the house? See our insurance guide.
Ventilation, power and drains
These three are cheap to plan on paper and expensive to retrofit after the slab is poured.
| System | Plan before the pour | Where to read more |
|---|---|---|
| Ventilation | Exhaust fan or vent for fumes, a separate air path from the house, and whether the shop is conditioned | HVAC sizing |
| Electric | Subpanel, 240V circuits for welder or compressor, outlet spacing, and whether the utility can serve larger motors | Electric service |
| Plumbing and drains | Floor drain or sump, sink, hose bibb, and where wash water goes. A floor drain may be regulated. | Septic and well |
| Insulation | Roof and wall insulation, vapor control and condensation on a cold slab | Insulation guide |
Watch out: do not tie a shop floor drain into the septic system without asking. Oil, solvents and wash water are different from household waste. Ask the county septic authority and your designer.
Shop planning checklist to bring to a builder
- Written list of every vehicle and machine, with measured height, width and weight.
- Door size, door type and headroom, in the bid.
- Eave height and clear height, in the bid.
- Engineer's slab design for the shop, not just "4-inch slab".
- Fire separation standard between shop and house, in the plans.
- Ventilation, conditioned or not, priced separately.
- Subpanel size, 240V circuits and utility answer on service.
- Drain and sump plan.
- Shop priced separately from living space. See the cost guide.
Pricing of shop space differs from living space, and so does the lender view. Our financing guide covers how that works. To meet independent barndominium builders near Tyler who will quote the shop and house separately, use the form below.
Frequently asked questions
How tall should a barndominium shop door be?
It depends on the tallest thing you will bring inside. Several steel-building guides point to a 14-ft door for Class A motorhomes, and suggest leaving margin above the roofline. Measure your tallest vehicle with its roof air conditioner, add margin, and have your builder confirm the header and eave height.
Can I add a taller door later?
It is far cheaper to frame for the door you want during the build. One steel-building guide notes that raising a header afterward costs much more than framing for it up front. Ask your builder what a taller opening would change in the price.
Does a shop attached to a house need a fire-rated wall?
The model residential code (IRC) has a dwelling-garage separation section, and the base text calls for gypsum board on the garage side. Whether it applies to your shop depends on the code your city or lender uses and on how the shop is classified. Ask your building official or lender, and your engineer or designer.
Does Smith County require a building permit for the shop?
We found no general residential building permit program in unincorporated Smith County, but septic, driveway, floodplain and deed rules can still apply, and cities have their own offices. See our Smith County permits guide and confirm with the county and any city office.
Do I need three-phase power for a shop?
Many home shops run on single-phase 240V. Large three-phase machines are a different matter, and the utility decides what service it can supply. Ask the utility early; our electric service guide covers the questions.
How thick should the shop slab be?
We do not give a thickness, because it depends on soil, loads and design. Tell your builder and engineer exactly which vehicles and equipment will sit on it, and ask for the engineer's slab design in writing.